Video: The Cup
Recently I was browsing TikTok when I came across a video of a man in distress. “Tell me what denim is, at presenthe shouts into the camera, raising his fist in a false– threatening pose. He urgently wanted to know what denim is made of and how, which is a good question, but I laughed because it also seemed existential to me. What East jeans right now? The designers are reinvent by playing not only with the silhouette and the construction, but also with our eyes and our expectations. On the tracks, we see jeans that look like shoes (cheeks) and shoes that look like jeans (jeakers). Bottega Veneta designer Matthieu Blazy debuted with leather jeans this season, and Glenn Martens gave us denim stitching. The celebrities are in, but what happens is so much more important than any look or trend; we have the impression of being in the middle of the Denimnaissance, where everything is possible.
“It feels like we’re living both no-jeans trends and every jean trend at once, with every size, wash, and fit imaginable suddenly available at your fingertips,” says fashion editor Emily Kirkpatrick, who keeps a close eye on celebs’ denim choices, from Justin Bieber extra-extra-large Balenciaga stockings in Rihanna’s extra-extra-long pregnancy-revealing look.
Because jeans are so ubiquitous, their various trend cycles have served as a particularly reliable reflection of culture, for better or for worse. Right now, people seem ready to put on some tough pants. But what kind? In the air of time, the offers are chaotic. (And inflated in price.) Knowing where to invest can be tricky. Did Jesse Kamm’s high-waisted flares survive the ‘vibe change’? Is the low rise really back? Are jeans getting bigger and baggier, or thinner and more micro-mini?
Personally, I have only ever found one pair of jeans that fit me well. They are black and they are Helmut Lang, and I’ve been wearing them every day for about five years. They seem to be sold out, though, so I’m not sure what new jeans to buy this spring, if any. All I want is either prohibitively expensive or too over the top for my liking. To get answers, I had to turn to some of my own “fashion friends” for advice. Below are their suggestions.
Low-rise jeans were first predicted to make a comeback in 2020, but now it seems their time has finally come, along with lower back tattoos and bandage dresses, and all things fashion. 2000. “I stocked up on low-rise, flared jeans,” says Emma Snapewhich transformed its popular vintage ICT Tac and Depop accounts at a storefront on the Lower East Side last year. “Some brands we love are True Religion (especially ones with diamond accents), Diesel and Evisu.
If you can’t find what you’re looking for in his shop or on his Depop page, there are plenty of used True Religion to be found elsewhere online.
Rogue also said she’s seeing “loose, carpenter, skate-style jeans that are meant to be worn a few sizes too big” making a comeback.
Plus intentional distress, especially around the waist. Justin Bieber would probably approve of them.
If the idea of going back to a low rise is too much for you (ditto), a looser, “loose” fit could have a similar effect. Nordstrom’s fashion and editorial director, Rickie De Sole, says she’s seen looser, lower-rise styles on the runways of Valentino and Balenciaga specifically. “A lot of these styles emit a throw-away sensibility without too much of the Y2K nostalgia that we saw last season,” she explained.
Instead of filling up justin bieber, fashion writer Emily Kirkpatrick says she’s “dipping her toe in the shallow end of the huge denim pool” with this pair from Mother. “They definitely lean more grunge than Insane Clown Posse,” she said. “But I still think they’ll serve as a smooth transition into my inevitable JNCO era. Plus, I like the ‘stolen value by a carpenter’ touch that implies I might actually know how to handle myself in a box at tools.
Business writer Chinea Rodriguez, meanwhile, says she searches for “JNCO, but make it fashionable.” She noticed that brands like Telfar and Peter Do showed “huge pants” this season, and a lot of baggy jeans were also on the catwalks last season, like at Molly Godard.
Rodriguez also recommends the following from H&M as a more affordable alternative. You might not be able to fit your laptop in the pocket, but definitely a Sidekick flip phone.
If you can splurge, The Cut’s style director Jessica Willis says The Row’s jeans are the “best ever.” And at this price, they better be!
“I’m a sucker for baggy jeans that look worn – like they’ve been passed down from generation to generation,” says Snap’s global head of fashion and beauty, Rajni Jacques. She’s loyal to Levi’s, but has also tried other brands lately, like R-13, Re/Done and ASOS. “R-13 has the asymmetric button-up jean which is classic, but the way it buttons up adds a design element that makes it modern,” she said. It also seems to be inspired by MargielaWhich is always a good thing.
“Since all of these trends are cyclical, and we inevitably drag our flare pants, high waists, and light washes every few years, there’s something stupid and absurd about suddenly deciding that a style is outdated,” says Anna Gray, founder of Club Ancien. In other words, wear what you want, when you want! Grey, of course, vintage shops (she will be at 99 Scott next weekend), but she also loves the B Sides brand “because they upcycle old jeans and have great fits.”
Almost everyone I spoke to cited Levi’s 501s as their go-to vintage jeans, but believe it or not, there are other options. “I actually find that classic Levi’s aren’t great for curvy girls,” said new York features writer Allison P. Davis. “What I loved were the Madewell ‘Balloon’ jeans. I hate to say it, but they have the perfect vintage curvy fit. It’s the easiest way to get that LEWK but stress free and with a square ass.
Along with the looser, lower jeans, De Sole says she’s also excited about “the return of a great denim shirt”, and is particularly interested in Alaïa’s version.
“I’m thrilled to have a great denim shirt back,” says De Sole.
My colleague, writer Matthew Schneier, wore a great denim shirt from APC to the office this week, but he says he couldn’t find another like this. I might just have to get the dress versionthen.
Diana Vreeland once said that blue jeans were “the most beautiful thing since the gondola”. Humans continue to innovate, and joots are our latest creation — the one I would say is just as awesome as a slender boat. A combination of jeans and boots, this special garment can also be called a “slippera “bant” or even a “caca”. Diesel and Saint Laurent are making them right now (and Jeffrey Campbell, of course, is making a nice counterfeit). Julia Fox wears them. But if you want to participate in the trend in a slightly less complicated way, the following will allow you to enter a “no shoes” household and not be naked.
As Julia Fox also proved with her recent accessory Alexander Wang, you don’t have to wear jeans on your body at all to participate in this absurd denim moment. The bag below from Clare V. may be a little less assertive, but it still looks a bit like a pair of pants.
“I’ve never been a big fan of denim because it’s hard to find a good pair that fits my waist and thighs perfectly because of my hourglass shape,” says Asia Milia Ware, editor junior from Cut. “Even when I find some that fit, they just aren’t comfortable. Something about sitting in denim all day makes me stiff, but I love opting for a good pair of cargo pants or sweatpants. I can wear them with sneakers or heels; Personally, I like to dress them up with a blazer. They’re super comfortable, unlike many jeans I’ve tried. This Norma Kamali pair combines comfort and tailoring, if you don’t want to give up your sweatshirts either.
I’m here for looser jeans. As someone who doesn’t have a butt to speak of, I appreciate the anti-wedgie look. In my dreams, I could buy this vintage-looking straight pair from Celine and never have to think about denim again. But, of course, it’s crazy, not only because of the price, which is insane, but also because there are no “perfect” jeans. That said, I’m pretty sure these jeans from Celine are perfect. And the gold hardware adds a touch of something special, which I don’t get from other designer brands like Khaite and Tôteme. I will look for them on the RealReal until I die.
In the meantime, I’ve decided to forgo harsh pants for miniskirts this spring. No, Miu Miu hasn’t made it into denim yet, but I’m sure it will. This one indigo of APC is currently in my cart instead.