The power of the imagination soars with the favorites “Dune”, “Spencer”, “The French Outpost” and the surprising “Cruella”. Constantly updated.
In the costume design race, it’s the sci-fi futurism of favorite “Dune” against a host of eclectic period pieces, including Princess Di’s upside down fairy tale in “Spencer. , The spiritual musical genius of Aretha Franklin. in “Respect”, the subversive punk delights of “Cruella”, the journalistic nostalgia of “The French Outpost” and the black traps of “The Tragedy of Macbeth”.
Denis Villeneuve’s long-awaited adaptation of Frank Herbert’s “Dune” (Warner Bros.) embraces the psychological and mystical elements of this epic adventure on the dangerous mix of politics and religion. Thus, the look was more “modern-medieval” than traditional futuristic, with costume designers Jacqueline West and Bob Morgan studying nomadic desert tribes, Greek mythology and paintings by Goya. However, the complex gray suit of the Fremen of the desert planet, Arrakis, was the innovative centerpiece, allowing them to survive thanks to the sophisticated fluid recycling system. It must have looked functional but stylish, and was fitted and out of this world. The gauze capes and cloaks acted as camouflage and the dresses imparted an aura of romance.
For director Pablo Larraín’s “Spencer” (Neon), which explores the implosion of Diana (Kristen Stewart) during a three-day Christmas vacation with the royals in 1991, two-time Oscar-winning costume designer Jacqueline Durran (“Little Women “, Anna Karenina”) has struggled for an imaginative historical fiction, in which Diana struggles to reclaim her former identity as Spencer. Durran and his team scanned images of Diana from 1988 to 1992, selecting iconic outfits they loved, and then captured the spirit of the clothes. The costume team created a system of colors and appearances, patterns for various times in their life. They were aided by the legendary Chanel, who designed outfits later in Diana’s life. They create replicas of selected archived items, like the red Christmas coat and the blue morning coat.
To honor Aretha Franklin (Jennifer Hudson) in the musical biopic “Respect” by director Liesl Tommy (United Artists Releasing), costume designer Clint Ramos delved into the psychology of the queen of soul. This allowed him to understand the complex emotional, spiritual and political forces that animated his musical genius. As a result, Ramos created an aesthetic of heightened realism and glam naturalism with over 80 bespoke costumes for Hudson. His music reflected his personal struggles, his gospel roots and the zeitgeist of the ’60s and’ 70s. It was important in building a wardrobe for Hudson (who is six inches taller than Franklin). The iconic metallic gold dress Franklin wore during his performances in Amsterdam has been altered to better fit Hudson. It became a pale pink and champagne beaded dress. The other legendary outfit that needed some tweaking was the green paisley cape dress Franklin wore when recording “Amazing Grace” at Watts in 1972. The color and pattern had to be adjusted to compliment Hudson.
Costume designer Jenny Beavan, another two-time Oscar winner (“Mad Max: Fury Road”, “A Room With a View”), delivered a recycled fabric pattern to dress up subversive fashion designer Emma Stone in “Cruella” (Disney). Beavan tapped her own childhood memories of ’70s London fashion to find a bow for Cruella, who goes from a rebellious child to a fashion sensation. She used inspirations from the 70s, military and fantasy. But the star is the Red Dress: a deconstruction of a prestigious vintage evening gown designed by the evil baroness Emma Thompson. The ultimate goal was to get you to believe that Cruella could possibly look like Glenn Close in the ’90s remake.
Wes Anderson’s “The French Dispatch” (Searchlight) doesn’t disappoint as a fashion tribute with its collection of “New Yorker” inspired stories set in a fictional French town. Four-time Oscar winner Milena Canonero (“The Grand Budapest Hotel”, “Marie Antoinette”, “Chariots of Fire”, “Barry Lyndon”) has designed a range of iconic outfits for the cast of the ensemble (Benicio del Toro, Adrien Brody, Tilda Swinton, Léa Seydoux, Frances McDormand, Timothée Chalamet, Lyna Khoudri, Jeffrey Wright, Mathieu Amalric, Stephen Park, Bill Murray and Owen Wilson). The star is a bright orange dress worn by Swinton. However, one of the challenges was to mix color and black and white, which meant that they had to carefully consider which colors and textures would read well in monochrome, and how they matched with hair and body. makeup.
With “The Tragedy of Macbeth” (A24), starring Denzel Washington and McDormand, Joel Coen embraced the theatricality inherent in Shakespeare’s play in expressionistic black and white tones. Three-time Oscar nominee Mary Zophres (“The Ballad of Buster Scruggs”, “La La Land”, “True Grit”) completed the look of the decors (accentuating the geometric patterns) by designing wardrobes full of earthy textiles. and with an emphasis on strong lines, silhouettes and profiles. The aesthetic was a bit medieval but also timeless. Fortunately, adapting to black and white was made easier by using the black setting in his iPhone.
Laurie Sparham / Disney
Other contenders include Guillermo del Toro’s reworking of “Nightmare Alley” (Searchlight), the 1940s psychological thriller starring Bradley Cooper as a carnal, high-society con artist, a costume designed by the Oscar winner Luis Sequeira (“The Shape of Water”); Steven Spielberg’s redesign of “West Side Story” (20th century studios), with Rachel Zegler as Maria and Ansel Elgort as Tony, with award-winning costume designer Paul Tazewell (“Hamilton”) ‘a Tony Award, creating the sumptuous outfits of the 1950s; and “Cyrano”, the musical adaptation by Joe Wright, starring Peter Dinklage as the titular romantic ahead of his time, with costumes designed by Massimo Cantini Parrini (“Pinocchio”) with an Italian vibe.
Classified in alphabetical order. No movie will be considered a favorite until we see it.
“The French dispatch”
“House of Gucci”
“Alley of Nightmares”
“Tammy Faye’s eyes”
“The last duel”
“The power of the dog”
“The Tragedy of Macbeth”
“West Side Story”
“Coming 2 America”
“The Green Knight”
“The more they fall”